Okay, this
post is the result of me making a write-up about the general things you need to
know about custom toys and toy repairs. Originally I wrote this in the
vernacular (Taglish) for the toy group it was for but I realized it might also
be useful as a resource for people who read my blog. This is just a
collection of general info I accumulated over the years and some specific
entries link to other articles that will tackle the subject better.
Part 1-Paint:
What to buy:
*Primer-
usually a spray paint that’s used to supplement your paint and helps it grip
the surface it’s applied to. Don’t abuse the spray primer because it can gum up
joints or ruin the surface to paint and erase some fine details on the figure. (suggested brand: BOSNY.)
* Acrylic Paints- ideal
for hand brushers , very durable when
used right and it’s very easy to clean up, you can thin it right up with water,
rubbing alcohol, or pledge wipe & shine floor polish—since it’s liquid
acrylic—and you can easily mix the colors. It has to be used carefully though and
with several thin coats to achieve a solid color, which can make the wait a
pain, but when done well, your patience will be rewarded with a nice, even
paintjob. If you rush it, it will definitely show, from uneven applications to
brush marks.(Brands:
Tamiya, P3, Vallejo, GSi Creos/Mr. Color, Citadel)
*Enamel
Paints- dries quicker than acrylic but eats plastic when
applied raw (no primer) or thickly. In my experience, the paint as well as the
thinner also eats through brush bristles, and the paint itself refuses to dry
on soft plastics like PVC or Vinyl. It’s much better if used with an airbrush, and
fewer coats will be necessary for achieving the solid color you want. Mineral spirits
or industrial enamel thinner—readily available in any hardware store, is usually
used to thin the paint. Oh yeah, since it eats a bit of plastic as it dries, it
actually bonds with the surface and becomes resistant to most wear and tear. Ideal
for metallic models.
(Brands:
Tamiya, Academy paints)
*Lacquer
Paints (usually
Airbrush)- I swear the fumes will get you high sometimes, but it dries very
quickly and it’s very resistant to chipping, and like enamels is best utilized
with an airbrush. The thinner I usually use is Mr. Lacquer thinner brand or the
industrial kind sold in hardware stores.
(Brands:
Tamiya, GSi Creos/Mr. Color)
* Spray Acrylics/Enamels-
Usually a person’s cheapest and quickest alternative,but it eats up a lot of
paint when used due to alack of control in the spray itself, and can usually be
found in hardware stores. If you’re in a rush to finish a paintjob this is
definitely up your alley, but make sure you keep an arms length between the
spray can and the thing you’re painting.
(Brands:
Pylox, Bosny, RJ London)
*Handbrushes-
cheap and easily replaceable (well unless these are Sable brushes) they’re easy
to learn at a basic level and when you begin experimenting with techniques you
will become attuned to using it, the drawback is that it takes a looooot of
time to finish a project. Make sure you get soft hair brushes that don’t easily
lose bristles or can leave strong brush marks on the surface you’re painting. Usually
soft bristled brushes are brown in hair color and are very soft and cuddly to the touch. The ones that are sold on
retail are usually called artist’s
brushes, and for beginners it’s best to get a cheap pack with assorted brush
types.
*Airbrush-
imagine the convenience of spray painting with the control of a hand brush,
with little wasted paint but you’ll need the power of an air compressor to make
it work. Stuff like this is very expensive, with the most basic set being
around 3k php ($70) and that’s Tamiya Sprayworks Basic, with the higher-end
components bought separately averaging around 1k php ($23) for the airbrush
alone, and 5k+ php ($116+) is the usual price range for the air compressor.
(Brands: Badger, Iwata, Tamiya, Hasegawa)
*Topcoat-
this isn’t usually needed, but if you’re
paranoid about paint chipping off or you want to reduce the retouching you have
to do later on, you need this. Topcoat
is usually applied to give the finished project a specific finish: Flat/Dull/Matte, which gives your
paintjob a “realistic” , toned down look, and Glossy which is way shiny and
much more durable, giving a sports car-like finish to something. It can be
applied through spray cans or airbrush like tamiya clear coats or Mr. Topcoat, or
it can be brushed on like Vallejo or Pledge Wipe & Shine/ Future Finish
Acrylic Floor Polish. I am totally serious about that last one; it’s tough and
glossy and can level paint when it dries, and it smells good too!
(Brands:
Tamiya, GSi Creos/ Mr. Topcoat, Pledge Wipe n' Shine Acrylic Floor Polish)
Where to
buy (in the Philippines):
*Ace Hardware (Spray Acrylics, primer, thinner, topcoat)
*Lil's hobby shop (hobby enamel, acrylic and lacquer, hand brushes,
airbrushes, thinner)
*Special Toy Center (hobby enamel, acrylic, and lacquer, hand brushes,
airbrushes, thinner)
*Deovir (Artist's acrylic and enamel paints, hand brushes,
airbrushes, thinner)
*Neutral grounds( Citadel Paint, hand brushes).
*Fortress games Greenhills (P3 Acrylic)
Tips on painting:
·
When you lack primer, sandpaper will do, usually 600 grit to make
the surface rougher so the paint will grip better.
·
Make sure you wash your
figure with soap and water to remove the mold release agent found on the toy’s
plastics that might inhibit the grip of the paint to the plastic.
·
In any event that you need to strip paint off a figure use rubbing
alcohol or windex, or any corresponding thinner of the paint used and a rag or
Q-tip to wipe off any paint mistakes.
